Local Heroes - The Purbeck Deli
Above: Diana Littleton, The Purbeck Deli
Above: One of their colourful displays
On a bright sunny day, Swanage is buzzing. Just off the seafront, locals and holidaymakers make a beeline for the Purbeck Deli. The well-filled bespoke baguettes are in great demand, and so good is the fresh home-made bread that the racks have just emptied! The brightness of this little food palace hits you right away, the shelves and cabinets displaying an eclectic mix of quality products, many from Dorset and the South West.
You can’t miss the sense of fun and smiles which prevail here. Presiding over this pint-sized deli, jam-packed with interesting goodies, is light-hearted Diana Littleton – sometime nanny/secretary and teacher – whose taking over of the shop in April 2007 signalled a third career. Many customers know her – obviously regulars – and the holidaymakers who land here by chance cannot believe their luck.
Born in Kingston-on-Thames, Diana arrived in her beloved Swanage at age five. After leaving school, she moved to London to work as a nanny/secretary. Diana then grabbed the opportunity to become a nanny in Dakar, despite not knowing where Senegal was at first. It was a bold decision. ‘I was a bit bored at my typewriter!’ she declares. She loved the year in West Africa, learning French in the process. A nanny’s post in Paris was good fun for the next few years. The next destination was Italy, but on finding herself pregnant, returned home to Swanage.
Nannying gave way to teacher training at Southampton University for Diana, and then a steady job as the high school co-ordinator at Swanage’s English Language College gave her many happy years in education.
Five years ago, Diana spotted the Purbeck Deli was for sale, and she wanted it. Unfortunately, the deal fell through, so when the ‘for sale’ sign went up again last year, she moved quickly. ‘A big change from teaching, a bit of a whim I suppose, but I’ve always been brave and bold. I knew I could make it a success. Good food has always been high on my list of priorities. I’ve travelled a lot and loved almost everything I’ve eaten in Europe and Africa.’ So, I ask, what did they eat in Senegal? ‘Mainly fish, rice and peanuts!’ comes the reply.
Diana recalls the Purbeck Deli seemed ‘unloved, dark and dull’ when she took over in April 2007. In came bright lighting and new counters, plus a new emphasis on local and regional products. Now, about 50% of all new lines hail from the South and South West.
Diana’s London-born mother Anne is a key figure among the six part-time staff. Emma Barnes and Nicola Honess used to teach with Diana and now help out at busy times in the deli, as does family friend Diane Mirza. Teenager Joe Babbage is Diana’s ‘right-hand man’, always keeping her laughing. Steve, Diana’s accountant father, comes every day to keep the books.
Diana’s son Jack looks in as we talk; he’s waiting to join the Royal Air Force. Is the third generation of Littletons ready to take his place behind the counter, I ask? A brisk shake of the head reveals no such agenda – well not yet anyway!
I’m ever fond of frangipanes and immediately discover a particularly delicious variety at the Purbeck Deli – nicely moist and almondy. Local chef Trina Grygiel makes them, as well as quiches, pizzas, pasties and Dorset-apple-cake towers. She makes interesting bread fresh every day, too. Trina, who was at school with Diana, serves in the shop on Sundays, in between finishing her baking in the shop’s long kitchen. ‘She’s a marvel,’ Diana enthuses.
On my edible odysseys I inevitably find something I’ve not seen before – and here I found Moore’s Dorset Thick and Thins, said to be an interesting combination of Dorset Blue Vinny, Kalamata olives, Dorset rapeseed oil from the Seed Company, and wheat from Nether Cerne.
In the cabinet are octopus pieces in olive oil and tinned smoked oysters – an acquired taste I should think. A good range of salamis sit next to caper berries and olives, and cheeses range from Cornish Blue to Channel Island brie to Quickes smoked Cheddar. Super Woolsery goat’s cheese, made by Annette Lee at Sydling, is one of Dorset’s steady sellers. The tasty ice cream is from Lovington’s near Castle Cary in Somerset. Then there’s Pure Blue water from Cornwall, mead from Lyme Bay winery, Taluli’s heavenly fudge from Portsmouth, and Coach House wines from West Wellow in the New Forest.
One shelf by the window is filled by Fudge’s biscuits – splendid creations from Stalbridge’s family bakery, and a fine firm whose quality is unequalled. In the Deli’s brick arches that house the soft and alcoholic drinks is one of the most local of products – dry wine from Harman’s Cross. I had no idea there was a vineyard there. Even more local is Swanage honey from Robert Field’s busy bees.
Like many seaside resorts, Swanage is busy in summer and quiet in winter. ‘Luckily,’ says Diana, ‘there are always customers and something to be done, even on the quietest winter day.’ Actually, Diana’s initiative and innate jollity has much increased the local footfall over her 17 months in charge. On my visit, there was a constant stream of customers in the shop, with queues forming as Anne Littleton made up a variety of different baguettes with a wealth of interesting fillings – now who fancies ham and brie today?
‘I love Swanage,’ Diana tells me, ‘and although living away for many years, I always knew I would return. I’ve a brilliant family and some brilliant friends in Swanage. I’m not going anywhere else.’
The Purbeck Deli, at 26 Institute Road, Swanage BH19 1BX, is open from 9.45am to 5.15pm Monday to Saturday, and from 11am to 4.30pm on Sunday. Tel: 01929 422344.