Framptons of Bridport
Above: Phil Frampton
Above: Frampton's appetising deli counter
Phil Frampton follows quite literally in the footsteps of 222 years of butchers, at the epicentre of the historic market town of Bridport. Then known as The Shambles – now the Market House – the handsome Georgian Town Hall’s ground floor was once open to the street through the arches.
The brickwork still contains some original wooden blocks among the bricks, to which butchers attached their hooks and stalls. The Grade I-listed, Market House dates from 1786, and was designed by architect William Tyler following the Great Fire of Bridport. The cupola and clock were added some 20 years later. Running right through the building are four ships’ masts, of uncertain origin, but, inevitably, more than two centuries old.
In 1983, Phil joined the Market House butchers, and when the business came up for sale 10 years later, he and wife Lynda bought it. I remarked that it meant he had been working there for 25 years, to which Phil responded with a laugh: ‘I must buy myself a gold watch.’
Phil was born in the village of Frampton – an interesting coincidence – and married Bridport girl Lynda 27 years ago. They have two children; Chris who is studying at Weymouth College, and Kirsty who is working in the office of the local ropemakers. Neither yet show any inclination to continue the family business.
Phil’s staff are loyal. Nick Tett started 10 years ago, Bruce Joy and Philip Case direct from school 17 years ago, initially washing up trays and cleaning. Mike Sanders joined in 1985 and Chris Legg has been here for 23 years. Lynda is the only woman among 11 employees, looking after the accounts and paperwork. Personal service is the pillar on which Phil and his staff have made their name. ‘A please, thank you and a smile, goes a long way,’ says Phil.
On entering the shop, I’m struck by the light and airy atrium, some 25 feet high. Two of the ships’ masts holding up the Town Hall are visible right away. The shop was remodelled in March 2006 with fresh meat to the right and deli to the left. The tiled walls include two local views, one of old Bridport and the other of the Town Hall.
Right away I noticed free-range veal, not often seen in England, but which I often buy in France. ‘We sell New Forest veal week in and week out,’ Phil tells me. He buys the best West Country meat – chicken from Crediton in Devon, organic chicken from Sydling, and organic pork from Will Frost at Childhay Manor in Somerset. Beef and lamb come from the Somerset Select farms around Glastonbury, while the moist and meaty steak-and-kidney pies are made by Mallards at Chideock – in the hot cabinet are their beef-and-Stilton pasties, and chicken-ham-and leek pies. Beef, turkey, ham and pork are prepared and cooked behind the shop, and bacon comes from just up the road from Denhay at Broadoak.
Framptons has grown by being strong on quality, and the bright shelves and displays in the shop are full of interest. Iron-hard pork scratchings from Rugeley are a Midlands’ delicacy, and the selection of unusual cheeses includes Devon Oke, smoked Knockanore, and Barbers esteemed 1833 cheddar which is matured for 24 months. Calves’ liver and local lean minced lamb are popular, too. New to me were the Thai pork sausages, although I rather favour the pork-and-thyme chipolatas. Also sounding an interesting mix of flavours was the local wild boar with garlic and basil.
Phil’s own favourite meat is rump steak which, he enthuses, is ‘full of flavour if it’s cooked right.’ Lynda likes hers with a liberal topping of Dorset Blue Vinny. I chose some brisket, which after an overnight simmer in the slow-cooker produced a perfectly tender and succulent lunch the next day.
From his unique viewpoint where Bridport’s three main streets meet, Phil feels the town is now more vibrant than it was 15 years ago. There have been markets in Bridport for many centuries. ‘The town has a special ambience on Wednesdays and Saturdays for the general market; I’m not sure the farmers’ market is anything like as good for our trade,’ says Phil. ‘Foot-and-mouth, BSE, bluetongue and now bird flu, have made consumers much more conscious of what they’re eating. They want to know the provenance of their food, and that’s a bonus to us. They’ve realised that buying two supermarket chickens for £5 is not the answer. We rely on top quality here.’ Lynda takes up the story: ‘Mothers are much more careful what they’re putting into their children – in fact, everybody is increasingly careful what food they’re buying.’
Framptons has a loyal customer base, and delivers locally to those unable to come into the shop. The shop supplies 30 pubs, restaurants and hotels, including many of Palmers’ exquisite country pubs like the New Inn at Cerne Abbas, the Crown at Uploders, and the Three Horseshoes at Burton Bradstock.
On a smaller scale to the Market House shop is Framptons’ other outlet which can be found just two miles down the road at West Bay, next to Samways super fish emporium. Staff from ‘head office’ work at West Bay on a rota basis, a week at the seaside being a pleasant change of scene.
The latest campaign in the food industry is against the ubiquitous plastic bag, already being outlawed in some towns. Phil is ahead of the game in that last Christmas he gave his customers a green hessian bag with ‘Framptons of Bridport’ stamped prominently on both sides. This stroke of marketing genius means that customers now walk around Bridport and elsewhere with these smart bags advertising Framptons to the world! A neat and green initiative.
Framptons of Bridport, which is at Market House, East Street, Bridport DT6 3LF, is open from 8am to 5.15pm Monday to Friday, and 8am to 1.15pm on Saturday. Tel: 01308 422995 or visit www.framptonsofbridport.co.uk